Day 19

74 miles. Marion, Kentucky to  Goreville, Illinois.  A hot day without a lot of options for lodging.  I took the ferry across the river into Illinois this morning.   I felt good today in spite of the heat.  Still lots of hills.  Tomorrow will be a short day.  I will stay in Carbondale and get a little bike work done.  Tonight I will be in a state park campground. 

  

Day 18

72 miles. Utica to Marion. I was coming down a hill and locked up the brakes when I saw the Bake Sale sign.  It was at a small Mennonite church.  Everyone was in traditional dress, the men with straw hats and suspenders, the women had their hair up with long dresses.  I bought some oatmeal cookies that were fantastic.  They had pies, cakes, bread and all sorts of great stuff.  We talked while I ate my cookies.  They were all very nice.  So far one of the best days of the trip. I'm camping at the city park tonight. I went to the Wednesday night service at the Baptist church and was able to take a quick shower while I was there also.          

Day 17

70 miles.  Double L grocery to Utica.  It rained most of last night.   More rolling hills today.  It got really humid today.  I got to draft behind an Amish horse and buggy today.  That was a first.  I passed some elk today also.  I am staying at the Utica fire house tonight.  A.C., mattresses, kitchen, shower, laundry, t.v. all for free.  Nothing like living off the land.  I passed 1000 miles for the trip today. 

Day 16

80 miles.  Bardstown to Double L grocery.  I'm in the rolling hills section of Kentucky now.  I saw more horses than people today.  I had a few extra bonus miles due to a navigational error.  I am camping at a small country store.  They even have a shower you can use.   A bunch of locals  sit around the store  and tell stories.  It's a real hoot to listen to them.   I saw my first Amish horse and buggy on the road. 

Day 15

45 miles.  Harrodsburg to Bardstown.  It was raining this mining so I did not get on the road until 9:00.  Made it sort of a rest day.  I'm in a motel and I have plenty of time to eat and do laundry.  80% chance of rain all day but I never got wet.  Nice rolling hills all day.  I think I am past the big climbs in the east.  I got my pedal bearing fixed at least temporarily.  I bought a wrench and some motor oil  from an auto parts store.  It did not make any noise all day.  I stopped at Lincoln's boyhood home.  They have a golf course there now.  With the Civil War and all I don't think he had a lot of time for golf. 

Day 14

71 miles.  Berea to Harrodsburg.  Unfortunately only 45 miles were on the route.  The rest of the miles were riding to a bike shop to get a problem worked on.  It did not get fixed.  I talked to a mechanic on the phone tonight and did some work myself.  I will see if it is any better tomorrow.  On a brighter note I did find a $5 bill on the side of the road.  I met a nice guy at a store this afternoon.  He was interested in my trip and talked for a while.  Home tonight is a cheap motel.  

Day 13

55 miles   Booneville to Berea.   The ride started out with more rural rolling hills.  I did not have any energy.  I stopped for a second breakfast at 11:00 and then felt better.  I got to Berea at 2:00.   Lots of traffic with no shoulder.  I am staying with Rose, her mom and her boyfriend Nathan.  She is a Warm Showers host who has been taking in traveling cyclists for the past 4 years.   She is a sweet gal with a big heart. 

   

Day 12

64 miles.   Hindman to Booneville.  Today felt like a rest day after the last 2 days.  I was finished by 3:00.  Still plenty of hills but only 2 climbs of more than 30 minutes.   I am staying at the Booneville Presbyterian Church  tonight.  They have a neat set up for long distance cyclists.  Everything you need, shelter, power and a cold water shower.  I met 2 couples on the road today.  They are doing the trip in sections of a couple of weeks per year.  We exchanged information on the trip ahead.  It sounds like I will have a nice day of riding tomorrow.  The coal truck pictured is one of the hundreds that has passed me in the past three days.  When they go by you feel the wind hit you like a wave.  Only a few dog chases today, none of them serious.  Yesterday it was like running the gauntlet.  I had fun talking to the ladies at the dairy bar at lunch.  They thought I was crazy to be riding these hills.  They might be right.  I'm at the Booneville public library now.  For a small town they have a very nice facility.  I ate at the local diner tonight and I have a Family Dollar a few blocks away so I can reload before I leave. 










 

Day 11

71 miles.  Breaks,Virginia to Hindman, Ky.  Coal trucks, dogs, hellish hills, 3rd world poverty.  But along with that comes more generosity and kindness.  I arrived about 5:00 and discovered that there was no place to stay.  Once again the pastor of the Baptist church opened up the youth building
for me to stay in.  It is.complete with a shower, couch, and ac.  Pastor Mike Caudill was warm and welcoming.  I even got to go to the Wednesday night bible study which was excellent.  One of the men tried to give me some.money after church.  I am learning that this trip is not about the cycling. 

Day 10

77 miles Damascus to Breaks.  Early start with LOTS of climbing.  I felt good so I pushed on a bit further.  I am camping at Breaks state park.  The people next to me brought me a big plate of food as soon as I set up camp.  More trail magic.  I met Tim on the road today.  He is headed east.  Virginia has been full of kind people.  On to Kentucky in the morning.  I said goodbye to my 3 pals last night.  We shared the laughs and struggles for 9 days.  I hope to see them again. 

Day 7